For every home master, do-it-yourself repairs are a matter of special pride. However, what to do if in the construction and conduct of finishing works the owner of the apartment has no experience? In such a situation, it is better to refuse to carry out repairs in the living room and in the kitchen with your own hands. To gain the necessary experience in renovating premises, you can start small - clean up the toilet.

This choice is quite logical, since the bathroom is the smallest among the premises of the apartment. In addition, a wide variety of materials are offered on the market, which allows the home master to implement absolutely any design when performing repairs in this room. Ideas for decorating the toilet can be found on the Internet. Even if the repair in the toilet with your own hands fails, there is always the opportunity to turn to real professionals. They will fix all the bugs in the design of the toilet and make the room beautiful.

When creating a toilet design, many apartment owners use material such as plastic panels. They are inexpensive, and with their help you can independently repair the bathroom.

Types and characteristics

PVC panels are made by forcing the initial liquid mass through a forming hole. As a result, air space is formed in the panels. This feature of the material ensures its low weight. Manufacturers produce plastic panels in the following sizes:

• width - 12.5-50 cm;
• length - 260-300 cm;
• thickness - 8-12 mm.

According to such a criterion as the scope of plastic panels are divided into wall and ceiling. The former are distinguished by higher strength characteristics and have good resistance to mechanical damage. If we talk about ceiling, then their feature is good flexibility and minimal weight.

Many people, when it comes to bathroom renovations, opt for PVC slats. They make such a decision, focusing on the advantages of this material. Among his most significant virtues can include the following:

Disadvantages of PVC panels

Like any material, PVC panels have certain disadvantages. It is worth knowing about them for apartment owners who have conceived DIY bathroom decoration.

When the toilet is finished with this material, it is fixed on the rails. As a result, the free space in the room is reduced. This is especially not liked by those apartment owners who have standard separate bathrooms.

If your apartment is subjected to a flood, then the task of drying the room will become quite difficult. Water can easily seep into interpanel seams and will take a long time to evaporate. This can lead to the occurrence of such unpleasant phenomena as mold and fungus. In some cases there is a need for partial dismantling panels.

The choice of plastic panels for finishing the toilet

Each apartment owner, when performing repairs, of course, strives to get an interesting design of the room as a result. Such a desire arises not only during the repair of the living room, but also when the lining of the toilet is carried out, which should also look attractive. Many people opt for plastic panels, which are inexpensive and easy to install.

A beautiful toilet can be obtained if you approach the task of choosing it correctly. And to do this is not so easy. And it's not just that there is a wide variety of PVC panels on the market. Often unscrupulous sellers offer defective products. To really buy quality material When choosing plastic panels, remember the following recommendations:

• plastic panels that will be used to decorate the toilet in your own apartment should be made of PVC with additives that increase the elasticity of the material. The smaller they are, the more brittle the plastic is. The presence of additives in the composition of the material can be determined quite in a simple way. It is necessary to take the panel at arm's length and begin to bend. Do this until you feel strong resistance. If the plastic has high quality characteristics, then it can be easily bent into a ring. The worse the quality of the material, the smaller the bending radius;
• When choosing PVC panels, you should pay attention to the material from which the lamellas are made. It should not emit any odors. If you feel a chemical smell, then you should refuse to purchase such panels and look for something else.

How to sheathe a toilet with plastic panels?

Toilet finishing plastic panels DIY is not a difficult task. If you have the skills to work with a tool, then you can easily master the installation of PVC panels. Competently carrying out this work will allow you to create an interesting design in the toilet. To make your wish come true - make quality toilet repairs in the apartment, you need to find in your schedule free time and prepare before starting work necessary materials and tools.

Of course, in order to create a beautiful toilet in your apartment, you cannot do without materials and tools. To cover the toilet with plastic panels, you will need:

Do not immediately rush to the store to purchase panels. First, you should measure the area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe toilet in which you plan to carry out finishing work. When you receive material calculations, then 15% should be added to this amount, which will be used for cuts.

Preparatory work

Lining the toilet with PVC material for many apartment owners is best solution when renovating a bathroom. For to make everything go smoothly and in the end you got a beautiful toilet with interesting design, repairs in this room should begin with preparatory work. Experts recommend that the first step is to remove the old finishing material from the walls. This will slightly increase the usable space of this room.

Before starting work, work should be done to replace water pipes and electrical wiring. Walls before installation of the material should be treated with a primer. Choose a primer that has antibacterial properties. In this case, at high humidity, mold and fungus will not appear on the walls under the panels.

Before you start working with plastic panels, you should also think about where the sink and cabinets will be placed in the bathroom. In these places, additional strips should be provided. It is on them that the accessories will be fixed. Before doing material installation, it is necessary to keep the lamellas at room temperature for several hours.

How to finish the toilet with plastic panels: installation

The first step is to fix the aluminum profile rails or plastic rails on the wall. In a horizontal orientation, the installation of a wall crate is performed. The ceiling is laid perpendicular to the direction of laying the material. A step of 50 cm is maintained between the guides. Some designers opt for a diagonal fastening of the material. If such original version you like the design, you should know that its implementation will lead to an increase in material costs.

You can immediately fix the U-shaped corner profiles. Next, the first panel is carefully inserted and fixed with prepared self-tapping screws. Some craftsmen use a construction stapler to secure the panels. . However, this type of fixation can only be used in relation to the wooden crate, which is a completely unsuitable material in the toilet.

Next, step by step, you should fasten the following panels, which must be pressed very tightly to the previous ones. The crucial moment when installing PVC lamellas in the toilet is the fastening of the last panel. An accurate calculation of the remaining width must be made. If you do not pay attention to this moment, you can ruin the entire structure.

You can proceed to work such as lining the ceiling in the toilet only after all the work on mounting the panels on the walls has been completed.

If your plans include spot lighting in the toilet, then you need to cut holes according to the size of the lighting fixtures. In addition, it is necessary to make holes in the installation sites of sockets and switches, as well as ventilation pipes. Cutting material for wall and ceiling decoration must be done from the front using a jigsaw or hacksaw with a tooth pitch of 1 mm.

When the panels are fixed, you can proceed to the installation decorative plinth. You can choose products made of plastic or ceramic.

Conclusion

When repairing a toilet, many apartment owners choose PVC panels for surface finishing. To get beautiful finish toilet with plastic panels, photo design projects on the Internet should be studied first. This will help determine the design of the room.

It is not difficult to create a beautiful toilet in your home. Just need to find free time and prepare materials and tools. High-quality repair of the toilet with plastic panels will allow you to get an aesthetic design of this room. Her original design will be a source of pride for the home master.

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How to mount PVC panels for the toilet yourself, and why they are good

It so happened that tile traditionally reigns in our bathrooms. There is nothing to say here, the lining is certainly good and reliable. But such pleasure does not come cheap. Apart from the cost of the material itself, it is often necessary to pay almost the same amount for laying, because not everyone can handle such work. But now there is a great alternative - PVC panels for the bathroom and toilet. Based on my own experience, then I will tell you why people love PVC panels so much and how to mount this coating with your own hands in several ways.

Why people choose PVC panels

I will not argue that PVC paneling of the toilet is the best and almost the only possible option, but still the advantages of such a cladding are much greater than the disadvantages, judge for yourself:

• Everyone knows that only wallpaper is lighter than plastic, therefore, any base will withstand such a lining. In this case, it does not matter at all what kind of walls you have, concrete (including newfangled foam and aerated concrete) or wood. Plastic will fit perfectly both on the walls and on the ceiling;

• If you choose traditional frame mounting, then you do not need to align the walls. Many prefer not to even plaster. You can imagine how much the cost of the project is reduced;
• Polyvinyl chloride material is absolutely resistant to any humidity, plus on modern models fungus and mold do not start, they are initially covered with an antiseptic. While moisture resistance should not be confused with waterproofing, PVC cladding is exceptionally good. decorative coating, waterproofing is different and, for example, in the bathroom, it will need to be equipped separately even before the installation of plastic;
• Caring for such panels is no more difficult than caring for tiles. A simple sponge and a traditional detergent are enough here;

• Modern plastic has a wide palette of colors and textures, such cladding can imitate most popular coatings, which is much superior to the same tile;
• And finally, self-finishing the toilet PVC panels costs at least 3-5 times cheaper than professional installation of good tiles. Agree, it is difficult to argue with such an argument.

This cladding also has negative points, but they are rather controversial:

• So opponents immediately point out that plastic burns and at the same time releases toxic compounds. This is true, but modern panels are made of self-extinguishing material, they can only melt from a cigarette or a short circuit, a strong fire is extremely unlikely. And if you are not going to fry a barbecue or warm yourself by a fire in the toilet, then you have nothing to be afraid of;

• Some say that do-it-yourself finishing requires serious preparation, and so, from my own experience I can tell you for sure that they are lying to you. If you are able to drill a hole in the wall with a puncher, and are not afraid of screwdrivers and hacksaws, then you can do it, such work will not be a problem for you;
• The only real drawback in my opinion is a small loss of usable space. The fact is that with frame mounting, you really lose at least 30 mm on each surface. Although do not forget that there is also a frameless version. I will also talk about this technology.

Technology and mounting options for PVC panels

Like any similar work, repairing a toilet with PVC panels is conditionally divided into several main stages. This is, first of all, the choice of material, the preparation of the base and the actual installation itself.

Finishing the toilet with PVC panels begins only after the floors are equipped, plumbing and doors are installed. All capital parts, for example, a sink or a heavy wall cabinet are attached to the base.
The maximum that you can hang on a plastic cover is a small framed photo or a light mirror. On the ceiling, such a panel can still withstand the built-in LED spotlight.

A few words about the choice of material

External coverage data is, of course, important, but most bathrooms in domestic apartments do not shine with dimensions, so I recommend paying priority attention to the strength of the panel. If this does not play a special role on the ceiling, then thin plastic on the wall can be easily pushed through by accidentally leaning on it or hitting it with an elbow.

When choosing panels, pay attention to the front side. If internal stiffeners are visible on it, then you are dealing with a thin, low-quality material and you should not take it.

In general, PVC panels are for outdoor and interior decoration, we are naturally interested in the second option. The width of such slats varies from 120 mm to 500 mm.

Now let's talk about the material for the frame. If you have had to install drywall, and you know how to handle UD and CD profiles, then such a frame will be almost ideal.

For people who are far from such work and are faced with mounting the frame for the first time, I recommend using wooden slats. The minimum size of such rails is 20x25 mm. But if the loss of usable area of ​​10 mm does not play a big role for you, then it is better to mount the frame from a 30x30 mm bar.

Do not save on docking fittings, all sorts of corners, plinths and fillets should be taken with a small margin. When cutting corners, it is very easy to make a mistake, and you definitely don’t want to run for a new bar to the market. Moreover, the price of such a product is quite affordable.

In addition to frames metal profile and a wooden bar, similar structures can be assembled from special guides with movable clamps. Such a cladding is more expensive, but it is very easy to dismantle and reassemble if necessary.

Frame installation

First of all, remember that the frame guides are mounted perpendicular to the PVC facing strips. In wet rooms, which are the toilet with a bathtub, most often the panels are mounted vertically, respectively, the frame slats run horizontally. This is done so that water does not accumulate in the locks, but flows down them.

As you understand, between the plastic coating and the wall we have a gap equal to the thickness of the frame slats. In a warm and humid room without drafts, this is just a resort for fungus and other similar vegetation. Therefore, even before the start of work, the entire room must be covered with an antiseptic a couple of times.

There are enough similar compositions on the market now, and with a waterproofing effect. Although if you are dealing with brick or classic concrete wall, then you can limit yourself to two or three times the surface treatment with a solution of copper sulfate, it is cheap and quite effective. Some whiten with lime, it dries well. But in both cases, the result is quite worthy.

Wood and aerated concrete must be covered with a deep penetration waterproofing primer. Here it is better to use special compositions, they are different and all have instructions, so there is no point in writing about it.
Theoretically, you can paint oil paint, but it is not durable and such savings will cost more.

If the frame is made of wooden bars, then they should also be well saturated with an antiseptic. Of course, you can spend money on a special compound, but I prefer to keep it simple, cover it with machine oil a couple of times, cheap and effective. Such slats will stand for more than a dozen years and nothing will happen to them.

You need to start the installation of the frame by installing vertical support rails around the perimeter in all corners. This is the main skeleton of the structure, guide fittings will be attached to it, so they need to be mounted clearly on a plumb line. If the wall is very curved, then wooden wedges are placed under the planks.

Fastening of any frame strips is carried out according to standard scheme. First, a series of through holes is made in the plank with a thin drill, so that the drill leaves a mark on the wall. After that, the bar is removed, and holes for plastic dowels are drilled in the designated places. When everything is ready, you just have to insert the dowels and fix the bar with self-tapping screws.

There is one small nuance here. Vertical guides should not rest against the floor and ceiling, a gap of about 5 mm is left between them. As a rule, during installation, trimmings of the same plastic are inserted from above and below, and after fixing with self-tapping screws, they are pulled out. It is advisable to drill under the screws on the bar under the screws, so that the hat is hidden in the bar.

With the installation of horizontal rails, everything is a little easier. They are also fixed to the walls with self-tapping screws, but in order for the bars to stand on the same level (meaning the case with strongly curved walls), they are screwed to the ends of the side vertical supports.

This can be done using metal corners or simply by driving a self-tapping screw from the side, at an angle of 45º into both strips at once. On curved walls, so that the planks do not bend, wedges are placed under them.

Horizontal guides, to which the PVC panels will actually be attached, are installed in increments of 30 - 50 cm, it all depends on the strength of the panels themselves.

Often in city apartments, all communications, that is, a sewer riser, plumbing, and so on, run along the back wall of the toilet. So, PVC cladding provides an excellent opportunity to hide all this "beauty". In this case, the two vertical support rails are mounted not at the rear corners, but in front of the pipe package. On them, with the help of corners, a horizontal crate is fastened and sewn up.

And in order to provide access to communications, hinged doors made of or OSB boards can be fixed on the same rails. By the way, these doors can also be sheathed with plastic, as a result they will merge with the general background.

Paneling

PVC sheathing with toilet panels, more precisely fixing them on wooden frame may be performed in different ways. Some masters recommend using small carnations with wide hats for this. Theoretically, this is possible, there is no error here.

But there is one important nuance. You will have to hammer these nails into a narrow mounting strip at the edge of the panel and if you miss once and hit the panel itself with a hammer, it will crack and need to be replaced.

Now there is such a convenient device as a construction stapler. The plastic mounting bar at the edge of the panel is itself thin and easily punched through by the sharp legs of the metal brackets.

The price for this stapler is quite adequate, plus it can come in handy more than once on the farm. And if you are absolutely sure that you will not have to disassemble the plastic lining in the foreseeable future, feel free to mount it on brackets.

But personally, I prefer to mount the panels on small self-tapping screws. True, for this it is desirable to have a normal screwdriver, wrapping such a number of screws with a screwdriver will tire your hand.

This method is also good because it does not matter at all what kind of frame you have, wooden or assembled from metal profiles. It’s just that one type of self-tapping screws is taken for wood, and another for metal.

The technology itself PVC mounting panels is extremely simple. First, fittings, that is, corners and skirting boards, are attached to the guides. This is an important stage, here everything should be as accurate as possible. The grooves in all guides have a depth of at least 10 mm, this must be taken into account when cutting the planks.

In my opinion, it is best for PVC panel lovers to cut with a hacksaw. Some masters cut with a sharp shoe knife or even metal scissors, this is possible, but in order not to spoil the edge, you will need to practice.

Polyvinyl chloride is prone to temperature deformations, so the bar itself is cut off taking into account the damper gap to compensate for expansion. Simply put, you need to measure about 5 mm less than the maximum size in length.

Then everything is simple. The bar is slightly bent, inserted into the lower and upper guides of the fittings, and then advanced until it enters the side groove of the starting corner. Now you need to fix the panel on each horizontal rail with a self-tapping screw or bracket.

The plastic panel has a spike on one side and a groove on the other. The spike of the first panel should be hidden in the groove of the fittings. The spike of the next panel is inserted into the groove of the previous one, after which it is fixed on the guides. And so on, until you sew up the entire wall.

Particular attention should be paid to the end panel. In the vast majority of cases, it will need to be cut along the entire length. It is cut off approximately 5 mm narrower than the maximum distance between the grooves of the previous panel and fittings.

After that, insert it into the guides and first push it all the way into the groove of the fittings, and when it enters, slide it back until it fully enters the groove of the previous panel. As you remember, the grooves on the fittings are much deeper and the difference in size will not be noticeable.

It is inconvenient to start the extreme trimmed strip immediately into the upper, lower and side groove. So that the edges of these grooves do not straighten out or even worse do not crack, I recommend bending them in advance with the help of wide metal spatulas, although an assistant is needed here.

If, when installing the extreme PVC panel, you managed to stretch the plastic walls of the grooves, which happens quite often, you can return them to their original appearance by heating them with a hairdryer and ironing the plastic through the fabric with an iron. And in order not to damage the panel itself, while you are heating, insert the blade of a metal spatula into the groove.

I already mentioned above that there is also mounting on kleimers. So, here you will need special guides. They are equipped with two grooves into which the kleimers are inserted and move along them like on rails.

By itself, the kleimer is a flat metal bracket with a small "tongue". When you insert the bar into the grooves and advance it until it stops, the clamper is adjusted from behind and presses the mounting strip with a tongue. No screws or staples for you, everything is simple and beautiful.

Instructions for lining the toilet ceiling with PVC panels are not much different from wall cladding technology. Unless you first need to lay electrical cable under lighting, and hide it in a corrugated metal hose. Naturally, when installing the frame, it will be necessary to take into account the depth of the built-in ceiling soffit. The hole for it is cut out with a special crown using an electric drill.

Subtleties of frameless mounting

PVC panels for the bathroom and toilet can be mounted without a frame, directly on the walls and ceiling, only for this smooth curvature on the plane should not exceed 3 mm, there is no question of any potholes and distortions at all. The technology in this case is much more accessible - the panels and fittings are simply glued to the walls and ceiling.

As the main adhesive composition, as a rule, the so-called "Liquid Nails" are used, this is a fairly common construction adhesive with an optimal price-quality ratio.

But working with him has one peculiarity. First, glue is applied to the wall and a panel is applied to it. After that, it comes off and is left for 3 - 4 minutes for winding, and only after that the PVC plank is finally glued.

On this topic, I have a case from life, it will be useful for you. One of my acquaintances, having bought an apartment on the secondary market, inherited from the previous owners of the service, taxed tiles. The tiles were good, but very old and ugly. There was neither the desire nor the means to knock it down and lay down a new one, and the dimensions of the premises were more than modest, frame installation would have made them generally miniature.

The man acted simply. He washed and degreased the tile well, then cut the PVC panels and glued them to the tile using double-sided construction tape. On a panel 250 mm wide, he used 3 fixing strips, but this is not a dogma, you can glue it in different ways.

When funds appeared, and it came to expensive elite repairs and redevelopment, it was very problematic to tear off this plastic. So keep in mind, this option also has a right to exist.

Conclusion

August 1, 2016

If you want to express gratitude, add a clarification or objection, ask the author something - add a comment or say thanks!

The desire of every apartment owner to equip their home with taste and comfort is quite natural, especially when it comes to such a place as a toilet. At the same time, it is quite natural to want to save on finishing. At first glance, everything is quite complicated, because at present the choice of materials for decoration is very large. But, focusing on the contents of the wallet, it is easy to divide the materials into budget and expensive ones.

Among budget options plastic panels are very popular for finishing the toilet, which, according to their characteristics, are ideal for decorating walls and ceilings not only in the toilet, but throughout the bathroom.

Beautiful designs can be seen in the photo. Not only that, they are also easy to attach, and also easy to dismantle in case of deformation. Therefore, to install them, you do not need to have any special knowledge and skills, but only the desire to independently make wall cladding in the toilet and bathroom.

Advantages and disadvantages of plastic panels when finishing the toilet

It should be noted that over time the quality of the sold material has become much better and more adapted to certain operating conditions. Previously, a plastic finish was chosen only when the repair in the toilet was strictly limited by the budget. But now with its help you can decorate the room and hide all the imperfections of the walls. You can verify this by looking at various photos designs. Various shades, patterns, textures and shapes will help make the interior unique and functional. But as it always happens, plastic paneling has its advantages and disadvantages.

Let's get to know them better:

Advantages

1. Ease of fastening.
2. Easy to wash and clean.
3. Resistant to aggressive detergents.
4. Sufficient strength of the material, achieved through additional stiffeners.
5. They have significant wear resistance.
6. Low cost.
7. The design allows you to close all communications, including pipes and wiring.
8. It is possible to make an additional layer for sound and heat insulation.
9. The vertical mounting method visually lengthens the space.

Flaws

1. Despite the stiffening ribs, the panel itself is thin and can crack with considerable effort.
2. If you are going to use plastic in a toilet or bathroom, you should pay attention to its safety for humans. Because some low quality models may contain aldehydes or other dangerous toxins.
3. There is a danger of slight ignition, as plastic is not very resistant to fire. Therefore, when buying, choose plastic panels with the most fire-resistant characteristics.
4. The area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe toilet or bathroom is slightly reduced due to the features of the fastening of the panels.

Plastic panels are mainly used for wall cladding in the bathroom and toilet, because they have the necessary characteristics for this. However, designers do not recommend sheathing walls with plastic in residential areas.

Color palette of plastic panels

The palette of PVC panels is so diverse that it can be used to create a real cozy corner for consumers with absolutely any taste. There are a lot of photos on the network, where various color shades and their combinations are presented.

It is impossible to single out the most popular shade, because with a successful combination, they all look great.

At least take a photo where the bathroom is presented in a beige tone.

If you choose the appropriate lighting and accessories for gold, you get a stylish and harmonious design, looking at which you can only be surprised because it is made with plastic panels.

Among the variety of photos you can find an option with PVC panels under ceramic tiles. This solution allows you to create an imitation of tiles and, accordingly, make the interior visually more expensive.

With the help of black and white colors is created stylish design, which is not inferior to the finish made of tiles. Finishing the toilet in pink, blue, light green or lilac tones can be no less harmonious and simple. It is only important that the toilet room does not seem visually smaller, and dark saturated shades can contribute to this.

Features of combining in the decoration of the toilet

When choosing plastic sheathing for walls and ceilings, you don’t have to stop at just one. Quite harmonious combinations can be formed if the walls and ceiling are sheathed with PVC panels, and ceramic tiles are laid on the floor. The tile will be able to withstand the load that is carried out on it for many years.

The rack mounting system allows you to hide wires and pipes, and also allows you to significantly decorate the design. In this way, ceilings are made out not only in small bathrooms, but also in large bathrooms. For small toilets, such a fastening system plays an additional role, allowing you to visually increase the space.

Panel mounting principles

There is no particular difficulty in fixing the panels in the restroom. It is only necessary to stock up on patience and a tool with which it will be possible to carry out the plan. The list of tools is small:

• Electric drill;
• Hacksaw designed for woodworking;
• Hacksaw for metal work;
• A screwdriver, if there is a screwdriver, then this is the best option;
• A hammer;
• Office for measurements and designations;
• Ladder or stepladder.

The first thing to do is to measure the work surface in the room and calculate how much plastic is needed. There are 2 options for attaching plates - gluing and rack type.

If the first option is chosen, then the walls must be completely cleaned of the previous cladding. After buying plastic panels, you need to let them stand indoors so that they reach room temperature. Do not remove the film in advance, which protects the surface from damage and scratches. In order to mount on the wall, carry out preparatory work. It is necessary to clean the surface and level it with plaster.

The second option is to mount on a crate, which looks like bars or battens screwed to the wall at some distance. There are certain standards - for mounting on the ceiling, the distance between the rails is no more than 30 cm, and on the walls - 30-40 cm. The rail profiles must be fixed perpendicular to the intended direction of the panels.

For mounting on wooden surface it is better to use self-tapping screws, and for concrete or brick walls suitable dowel-nails.

Repairing damaged panels will not work, they will only have to be thrown away. This must be taken into account when calculating required amount and take a few spares. Fastening to the crate involves punching through the panel, so any erroneous hole will cost a beautiful and coherent design.

First, the fittings are attached - these are the corner and final elements. fasten ceiling plinths if you plan to install panels to the ceiling. After that, the panel is inserted into the fastener with a narrow side, and on the wide side it is attached to the rail.

After you make sure that the plastic part is evenly installed, fasten the next one. Maintain maximum fit. The final panel in the row is inserted between the last part and the adjoining fittings. If any part is superfluous, then it must be cut with a knife.

The ceiling mount differs from the wall mount in that you need to leave a distance of about 15 cm for spotlights. Holes for their output are pre-marked and cut out.

Practical use of plastic panels

In order for the restroom to be always clean and pleasing to the eye, it needs care. Especially carefully it must be carried out on the surface of plastic panels, because they can crack.

After some time of operation, dirt can get between the fastenings of the plates, which over time will provoke the appearance of mold. To prevent this from happening, it is necessary to regularly sanitize the surface with special disinfectants. Suitable soft detergents soap based. It is not desirable to use products based on abrasive particles. They can scratch the surface of the panels and the original appearance will be lost.

Since Moscow is quite an expensive city, the use of PVC panels is very popular among its residents. But thanks modern technologies quality and appearance have improved significantly. Therefore, saving money, you can make a stylish design both in the toilet and in the bathroom.

The decision to make repairs in the toilet and use it for PVC cladding panels came spontaneously. Our latrine had to be repaired a long time ago, since the pipeline was already tired of not being closed. After studying the assortment facing materials, paneling seemed interesting idea. We put tiles on the toilet floor and the whole bathroom was transformed after the renovation.

Svetlana

I did not want to invest a lot of money in repairs, and there were no extra ones, so Wall panels turned out to be an interesting idea. Ordered in Moscow and delivery came quickly. We chose a tile imitation in beige and brown ratio. It turned out very nice, especially since all the pipes were hidden. The toilet floor was tiled, and the ceiling was also plastic.

Currently, it is easy to choose and purchase certain materials suitable for lining the walls of the bathroom. But, it is the decoration of the toilet room with plastic panels that is the most affordable and simply feasible solution.

However, the choice of plastic panels as finishing material due not only to the fact that the cost of repairs will be low. The fact is that plastic is durable, waterproof and resistant to biological factors. Agree that these are the requirements we make in wall cladding in the toilet.

List of materials and tools

So, it's time to learn how to decorate the toilet with plastic panels on your own, without resorting to the services of professionals.

In order for the toilet to be successfully finished with plastic panels, the following materials and tools will be required:

• PVC panels;
• additional elements - moldings (corner and finishing strips);
• wooden rail with cross section 20 * 25 mm for stuffing the crate;
• pieces of plywood for laying under the slats;
• nails 15 mm long;
• dowels with plastic seals for fastening in concrete (diameter and length are selected in accordance with the density of the walls);
• a miter box for cutting skirting boards and a special hacksaw;
• mounting knife;
• hammer of medium size;
• puncher with a chisel and a set of drills;
• tool for dismantling plumbing;
• plaster rule;
• water level.

Preparing the premises for installation work

Preparatory work consists of the following steps:

• dismantling of plumbing;
• dismantling of the old wall covering;
• inspection of mounting surfaces and removal of coiled fragments;
• cleaning of construction debris;
• disinfection of mounting surfaces.

The installation instructions for PVC panels involve working with vertical surfaces, and therefore free access must be provided to all sections of the walls. Therefore, in the process of preparatory work, it will be necessary to dismantle the plumbing.

Important: Given the specifics of wall cladding in bathrooms, it is better to combine finishing work with major repairs.

You can find the details of the dismantling and installation of plumbing in the relevant articles on our portal.

After the plumbing is dismantled, we knock down the old coating from the walls. For these purposes, we use a puncher with a chisel. Before proceeding with dismantling old tiles or other coatings, it will be useful to find out how durable the walls are. If the wall is like in the old apartment buildings is a thin partition, work as carefully as possible so that cracks do not appear on the other side of the partition.

After the old coating is removed, carefully inspect the walls for the presence of baying areas. If there are any, it is better to remove them immediately so that they do not subsequently fall under the lining layer.

At the next stage, we sweep the prepared surfaces with a broom and remove dust from them in this way. After that, we remove construction debris.

Now a particularly important point is the disinfection of mounting surfaces. If you do not want the walls to grow moldy under a layer of cladding and smell unpleasant, you need to take care of this in advance. The best solution is strong sprays that make the treated surface unsuitable for the life of microorganisms.

So, we got acquainted with the preparatory work, now we proceed directly to how the toilet is finished with PVC panels.

Installation work

Execution instruction installation work includes the following steps:

• lathing installation;
• panel mounting;
• installation of additional elements at the junction of walls and ceilings, walls and plumbing, etc.

Let's consider each of these stages in more detail.

Crate stuffing

Since most of the PVC panels on sale are installed in a vertical direction, the crate is mounted horizontally.

This is done as follows:

• with a long plaster rule and a water level, we determine the most protruding part of the wall;

• in this area we fasten the rail in a horizontal position with dowels;

Important: During installation, it is necessary to recess the dowel heads so that they are flush with the surface of the rail.

• when mounting the rail, we align its position relative to the wall, placing plywood inserts;

• relative to the first rail, we fasten the following strips so that the distance between them does not exceed 0.5 meters;
• at the very bottom and at the very top of the wall we fill the slats on which we will fasten the finishing strips;
• around the pipes of the riser we make a frame in order to subsequently cover them with panels;
• after all the rails are installed, once again we make sure that they are all brought to the same level.

Important: No matter how smooth the walls seem, there may be curvature on them.
If the crate is stuffed without plywood inserts, installed panels bend.

Again, you need to make sure that the slats used are even. If the slats that are on sale are even slightly curved, you can purchase a metal one used when installing drywall.

Installation instructions are as follows:

• along the height of the wall we measure the corner bar and cut it in the miter box at a right angle;
• we fix the prepared bar in the corner with a stapler (if there is no mounting stapler, we use small nails 15 mm long and a small hammer);

• we measure the length of the wall along the horizon and, according to the measurements made, we cut off the upper and lower finishing strips;
• we fix the finishing strips at the upper and lower points of the wall;
• we measure the height of the wall and, in accordance with these measurements, cut the panels;
• the first panel is inserted into the corner bar with the side where the spike is located;
• on the reverse side, where the groove is located, we fasten the panel with nails or staples with a stapler;
• insert the spike of the next panel into the groove of the previous panel until the part fits as tightly as possible;

• when, installing the panels, we reach the corner, we measure the width of the remaining gap and by these measurements we cut the whole panel in the longitudinal direction;
• we insert the prepared last panel with a spike into the groove of the previous panel, and with the reverse edge into the corner panel.

Tip: Before covering the crate with panels at the location of the riser pipes, engineering communications can be wrapped with glass wool.
In this way, you can prevent the unwanted noises that are the norm for the operation of a toilet in an apartment building.

In addition, at the location of the revision in the riser pipes, it would be advisable to install a special hatch on the panels. Thanks to the installed hatch, it will be possible to clean the pipes without dismantling the wall cladding.

Ceiling lining

As well as walls, you can veneer the ceiling. For installation work, the same materials and the same tools will be required. If you decide to clad the ceiling with plastic panels, install a corner bar instead of the top finish bar when finishing the walls. In this case, it will be possible to insert panels on the ceiling and on the walls into one plank.

Conclusion

Plastic panels are becoming more and more popular due to the combination of their positive qualities that suit most consumers. This includes aesthetic appearance, a variety of colors and patterns, the possibility light cleaning, practicality and affordable cost. This type of finish is especially well suited for areas requiring strict sanitary standards, such as bathrooms and toilets. In addition to bathrooms, PVC panels are also used to decorate the walls and ceilings of hallways, as well as balconies and loggias.

Finishing the toilet with plastic panels is the best option for those apartment owners who are starting repairs, but at the same time are faced with a limited "budget". There is a double benefit here: in addition to the fact that the material belongs to the public price category, its installation can be done on their own. The absence of the need for additional costs for inviting craftsmen is also an important advantage of plastic panels over other types of finishes.

How to choose high-quality plastic panels?

Due to the fact that this finishing material is in great demand, it is on sale in a wide variety. At the same time, both high-quality products and products of not particularly conscientious manufacturers can be present in the assortment of stores. Just looking at the plastic panels "with the naked eye", it is quite difficult to determine their quality, so when choosing this material, it is recommended to follow some tips. They will allow you to choose a material that will meet the declared characteristics and service life.

• The material used for the manufacture of finishing panels must contain additives that improve the elasticity of products. Thanks to them, the panels are relatively easy to bend and it is quite difficult to accidentally damage them with a careless movement. If the plastic is brittle and loses its strength and shape when pressed or with a slight impact, then these are poor-quality panels. They will not last long, and the finished walls will quickly lose their respectable appearance during operation.

- Try pressing on the edge of the panel by grabbing it with two fingers. Internal stiffeners must not bend or deform, and visible dents are not allowed on the surface.

A high-quality panel, when squeezed with your fingers, should not bend, and the internal stiffeners should not deform

- It is necessary to try to bend the mounting strip of plastic located along the edge of the panel and forming a docking lock. The material is not something that should not break off - in high-quality panels, this strip should return to its original state, without leaving a trace along the bend line.

Prices for plastic panels

plastic panels

- It is necessary to carefully examine the outer plane of the panel. Through upper layer plastic should not be translucent or protrude internal stiffeners, that is, the surface should be smooth and uniform.

• Plastic should not emit unpleasant chemical odors. If they are present, then it is better to refuse such panels immediately. For sure, the manufacturer, in order to minimize the cost of production, used low-quality raw materials or violates the established production technology. During operation, such a finish will emit fumes that are harmful to the health of residents of an apartment or house. Such panels, without any doubt, should be attributed to low-quality products.
• PVC panels are produced in various widths. For small room the toilet is unprofitable to purchase too wide panels, as there will be a lot of waste. However, much depends on the specific dimensions of the panels themselves, and the toilet, on the need for installation decorative box to hide communications from other specific conditions. If the owner has a spatial imagination, then he will be able to imagine in advance what width of the panels will be optimal.

• When choosing a finishing material, it is recommended, without any hesitation, to request a certificate from the seller, in which the manufacturer is indicated and the compliance of the panels with all technical, sanitary and fire safety standards is noted. If the outlet staff cannot or refuses to provide certification documentation for the products sold, then the best solution would be to contact another hardware store.

Preparation for finishing work

In order for the work on finishing the toilet room to be successful, it is necessary to carefully prepare for it. Before carrying out the installation itself, you will need to take measurements and purchase the necessary materials, prepare necessary tools, perform some measures for the treatment of wall surfaces.

Taking measurements and purchasing materials

The first step is to measure the space. The goal is to determine the area of ​​the surfaces to be trimmed, the amount of finishing material. It is very important to immediately calculate the number of fitting profiles that will be required:

— for registration of internal and external corners;

- for finishing the junctions of plastic lining to the flow line and the floor;

- for mounting cabinets, doors, inspection windows - if it is intended by the finishing plan.

The choice of these profile elements will depend on the design idea, the size of the room, as well as the technique of installing panels in certain areas.

The finishing material itself, that is, plastic panels, is recommended to be purchased 15% more than the measurements of the area showed - some will definitely go into scraps, and in addition, the possibility of accidental damage or incorrect cut cannot be ruled out, especially if there is insufficient experience in carrying out such work.

• You will need material for mounting the crate. Since the toilet usually has a small area, the owners have to save every centimeter. Therefore, it is advisable to choose a metal profile or wooden slats for the frame with a cross-sectional size of 20 × 50 mm. The number of rails is easy to calculate in place, based on the height and width of the walls, bearing in mind that the guide battens should be located in increments of 500 ÷ 600 mm. In addition, the elements of the crate are calculated separately for the decorative box that hides the pipes (if it is conceived), as well as for the ceiling frame (if paneling is planned there as well).

To fix the beam on the wall, you will need dowels with such a length that they enter the wall by 50 ÷ 60 mm. Their number is also determined by the step with which the guide crates will be fixed with their help. Usually it is 450÷500 mm.

• To fix the plastic panels on the frame, you need to prepare self-tapping screws 15 ÷ 20 mm long (depending on the type of crate - for wood or metal). When installing panels on wooden slats, a construction stapler with staples 10 ÷ 12 mm is often used.
• In the case when the walls are perfectly even (which is extremely rare even in panel houses), you can save space and do without crates at all. Panels in such conditions can be glued directly to the surface of the walls. For such installation, glue such as "liquid nails" or even one of the tile adhesives is used.
• If a wooden crate is used, then it will not be out of place to purchase a tool for pre-treatment of structural parts, which will protect them from decay.
• You will need a primer for the ceiling and walls of the toilet. It will increase the strength of the finished surfaces, reduce the likelihood of mold colonies or insect nests in the closed space between the main wall (floor) and the finishing material.

Assembly tools

To perform preparatory and finishing work, you will need to prepare a certain set of tools.

• with a set of bits.
• Hammer drill or electric drill with punching function.
• Drills for wood and concrete of different diameters.
• Electric or manual jigsaw.
• Scissors for metal, if a metal profile will be used in the design.
• A hammer.
• Construction (stationery) knife.
• Roulette and construction square.
• Pencil and marker for marking.
• Construction stapler.
• Building level with vertical and horizontal pointer.
• For the preparation of wall surfaces, you may need spatulas, a building hair dryer, a roller and a brush for applying a primer.

When everything you need for work is ready, you can proceed to preparing the room for the installation process.

Preparing room surfaces for finishing

The preparation of the surfaces of the toilet room for finishing with plastic panels is as follows:

• So that under the finishing material, in an enclosed space, a favorable environment for the appearance of insects and mold spots is not created, it is recommended (if any) and exfoliated paint. A metal spatula is used for cleaning.

If it is necessary to free the walls from wallpaper, and they are securely fixed on the surface, then it is recommended to apply them with a roller warm water, and you need to do this several times. In those areas where the wallpaper begins to warp from moisture, you can begin to remove them.

• It is not necessary to completely remove the paint, the main thing is to remove it in those areas where it has peeled off the wall surface.
• Further, the marking of the cleaned walls is carried out and at the same time the number and height or length of the lathing laths are determined. Here it is necessary to clarify that if the lining panels are planned to be installed vertically, then the beam under it is fixed horizontally at a distance of 600 mm from each other. In the case of a horizontal installation of the finishing material, the frame guides are fixed vertically to the wall. Necessarily, the details of the crate must be installed at the bottom of the wall, 20 ÷ 30 mm from the floor and along the upper part of the wall along the line of fixing the crate under the ceiling sheathing or at the junction of the wall and ceiling.

• If the crate will be mounted from wood, then the frame slats are prepared as the next step. They are cut to size and then processed, and all surfaces must be processed, including the end sides, that is, slices. After applying the composition, they must be left to dry completely. This work is best done on the balcony, where there is air access, and the space is somewhat larger than the area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe toilet.

• While the wooden frame elements are drying on the balcony, you can do antiseptic treatment toilet walls and ceiling. Priming is carried out using a roller with a fluffy nozzle or a wide brush. AT hard-to-reach places a narrower brush may be required.

The primer absorbs and dries quickly enough, within a few hours, so there will be enough time to apply two layers of this composition to guarantee and wait for them to dry completely.

primer prices

primer

• The primer can be transparent or opaque. If a thick white composition is chosen, then the marking of the walls should be done after the treated surfaces have dried.
• If during the repair it is planned to replace the toilet bowl, then it is more expedient to dismantle the old one before fixing the crate.

Wall cladding with plastic panels

When the site for further installation is completely ready, and the marking lines are clearly visible on it, you can proceed first to fixing the crate, and then to the finishing material itself.

Illustration	Brief description of the operation to be performed
	In the first step, the guides are always fixed to flat sections of the walls, and only after that vertical and horizontal frames are built around the areas of communications, as well as protruding corners. In laths (beams), at a distance of 500÷600 mm from each other, with the help of electric drill and wood drills, holes are drilled through which the frame elements will be fixed to the wall. The holes must have a diameter corresponding to the diameter of the dowel.
	Further, a beam with holes is applied to the line marked on the wall, and through a hole located approximately in the middle of the guide (along the length), a drill with a drill for concrete marks the place of attachment. Then the beam is removed, and the hole is deepened to the length of the dowel.
	After that, the timber is attached back to the wall and a dowel with a screw installed in it is driven through it into the hole in the wall. First, only one fastener is driven in so that the beam can be leveled.
	Next, the beam is leveled at the building level and the remaining attachment points to the wall are outlined, the corresponding holes are drilled, and dowels are hammered into them. Similarly, on flat sections of the wall, all load-bearing elements of the crate are fixed.
	If distortions are found during marking on the wall surface, then the crate is leveled with the help of additional linings installed between the beam and the wall.
	Quite often in the layout of old houses in the bathrooms in the upper part of the wall there is a window for natural light. If it is not planned to use this opening as a niche-shelf, then the frame parts (platbands) are dismantled from it, and frame guides can be fixed on the wave frame with self-tapping screws.
	This illustration shows well how the guide rails should be fixed to the even walls of this small room.
	Probably, in order not to violate the demonstration of the sequence of work, we should briefly consider the dismantling and laying of ceramic floor tiles. So, after fixing the elements of the crate, the old coating is removed from the floor. To do this, you can use a puncher with a specific nozzle in the form of a chisel. Together with the tile, the solution on which it was laid is also removed. After cleaning construction debris from the floor, the surface must be cleaned as much as possible from various protrusions. If necessary, the floor is leveled with a self-leveling compound.
	The next step is to erect a crate for a decorative box around a vertically passing sewer riser, as well as passing along the rear wall of the toilet sewer pipe. This frame element can be made in different ways. In the illustration shown, it is made of short pieces of timber, connected at right angles, and fixed on straight sections of the walls of the crate.
	The frame of the decorative box can also be erected from a metal profile. Installed vertical racks and are rigidly fastened together by horizontal jumpers. The design is displayed in the form of a communication unit, consisting of a sewer and water riser.
	Jumpers are made from the same metal profile, fixed from the inside of the frame. The frame of the box is mounted and screwed to the bar fixed on the wall using self-tapping screws.
	This version of the box frame, built from vertical bar, which is fastened together by horizontal lintels and connected to the crate fixed on the wall, is a more rigid and reliable structure. In addition, it will be more comfortable to fix the finishing material on wooden guides.
	This version of the box is especially convenient if pipes also run along the side wall, and meters for hot and cold water are mounted in them. The horizontal crate is connected to the beam on the wall and the frame of the vertical box using self-tapping screws, and if necessary, for greater rigidity, also using metal corners.
	Another version of the design of the box from a metal profile and timber. In this case, the beam is a material that stiffens the frame, and the metal profile is more plastic than wood. It can be cut and constructed from it into a more compact box by slightly cutting off the corner. This is especially true when connections are required at angles other than right.
	The illustration shows what this version of the box frame looks like without decorative panels. This design is well suited for sheathing, in which a fitting corner will not be used - the panel will smoothly go around the horizontally installed elements of the metal crate.
	A horizontal box-shaped frame structure along the back wall of the room, above the sewer pipe, is best done together with the entire crate. However, some craftsmen work on their own installation system and prefer to install it after the finishing material has already been fixed to the main frame.
	This frame is made from wooden beam necessarily treated with antiseptic impregnation. The front vertical side of this frame is a frame on which the decorative trim will be fixed.
	Another version of the frame, which is made of a metal profile. It can be called more acceptable in this case, since the structure will be located near pipes and plumbing fixtures, on which condensation moisture can appear during temperature changes. However, it should be remembered that it is more convenient to mount the panels on wooden bars, therefore, wooden slats are often screwed on top of the metal.
	When the floor area is prepared and limited by the horizontal and the base of the vertical frame, you can move on to tiling the surface. The first step is to try on the central row of tiles - it should be placed strictly in the center of the room, at the same distance from the walls.
	Using a marker, guide lines are drawn along the edges of the laid out tiles, along which the finishing material will be laid.
	Further, according to the marking made, the tile is laid on the tile adhesive. To maintain a single width of the seams, special plastic calibration crosses are used.
	When laying a tiled floor, its surface must be constantly monitored building level to keep it in the horizontal plane. The illustration shows a finished, tiled floor surface with grouted tile joints. The floor is over - you can proceed directly to the installation of plastic panels.
	Now, before starting installation, the panels are adjusted in length and width, according to the location of the middle border and its pattern (if any).
	It is more difficult to match panels with individual fragments of a pattern, the parts of which are located on different panels and, when joined, are assembled into a whole element. In order for the finish to look neat and aesthetically pleasing, it is necessary to accurately combine the floral or geometric ornament, as well as curb lines.
	Installation of trim on the crate can be carried out using fittings corner profiles or without using them. Starting guides are mandatory in any case, since without them general form finishes will look sloppy. Plastic profiles are fixed to the crate beam using stapler brackets. Fixation is carried out in increments of 150÷200 mm.
	Profiles are produced only in white, so they are not suitable for all colors of the finishing material, and therefore some craftsmen prefer to do without them in some cases. This photo shows the option of joining two panels in the corner of the room, which are perfectly matched to each other without the use of corners.
	If a decision is made to abandon the corner profiles, then the first panel, which is installed on the frame crate of the box, is first fixed on “liquid nails”, and then screwed on with 15 ÷ 20 mm self-tapping screws with wide caps.
	Installation of panels starts from the corner of the room, and the verticality of the first panel in a row, before its final fixing, is carefully verified according to the building level. Therefore, first the self-tapping screw is screwed into the crate beam in the middle part of the panel height, and the edge is leveled. Well, then the panel is finally fixed to the rest of the elements of the crate. The evenness and accuracy of the entire wall cladding will depend on the correct installation of the first panel. If the panels are installed unevenly, then the existing pattern on their surfaces may not match.
	If one of the walls has a completely flat surface, and the panels will be mounted on it without a crate, then they can be glued on “liquid nails” or on cement-based tile adhesive.
	"Liquid" nails are applied to the wall in strips 10 ÷ 15 mm thick. If tile adhesive is used, it is spread with a notched trowel with a comb height of 5 mm over the entire surface under the panel.
	If the whole panel falls on the junction of the lathing areas that make up different planes, then it is first joined to the previously fixed panel without fixation, and then the cut line is measured in place. This process must be done in this way because the outer corner may not be even enough. It happens that after cutting exactly along the measured lines of the excess part of the panel (without a real fit “in place”, focusing solely on the results of linear measurements), its edge in one place may coincide with the corner protrusion, but not in another, so it will be damaged. After cutting out the excess fragment, the panel is fixed to the crate.
	The outer corner can be closed with a regular corner, which is glued to the "liquid nails". Another option - it is masked by the so-called outer corner molding, which has special grooves. Glue is applied to their inner surfaces, and then the edges of the joined panels are inserted into the grooves.
	The pipes located on the side walls are closed with short sections of panels. Often, craftsmen prefer to close them with sliding doors, which will be discussed later.
	If water meters are installed on one of the side walls, then it is impossible to close them completely, so the craftsmen resort to two options - this is either a small window with an opening door, or sliding panels. The second method is more practical, as it allows you to control the entire space, and in the event of an emergency, it can be eliminated without disassembling the entire structure.
	Sliding doors (there may be two or more) are made from ordinary panels. They are installed in profiles fixed along the top and bottom of the opening with two or three guide channels (grooves). The type of profile, of course, will depend on the number of doors, since each of them must have its own space for free circulation.
	For the convenience of moving such doors, ordinary internal plastic door handles are installed in them, which are carefully glued into the cut hole.
	A decorative box located behind the toilet, along the back wall, also needs to be sheathed with plastic lining panels of the desired length. To make the finish look neat, it is glued to the lower beam of the front frame, and then the starting molding is fixed with a stapler and staples.
	The next step is to cut out a cover for this box from the panel, try it on, determine the location of the outlet of the water connection hose to the drain tank, and cut a hole for it. Then glue "liquid" nails is applied to the beam, and the top panel of the decorative box is glued. In this case, a flexible liner (hose) for the drain tank must first be installed and “packed”, and threaded through the opening of the cover.
	Further, the necessary fragments are cut out of the panels for facing the front side of the box. This part is assembled into a single canvas, tried on in place, and then a hole is marked on it for the exit of the sewer pipe pipe to be connected to the toilet. After that, a cut is made in the middle of one or along the edges of two panels. In addition, a window is marked, which allows monitoring the condition of the pipes passing inside the box. From the extreme left or right panel, the protruding edge of the lock is cut off so that it fits closely with the main wall decoration.
	In the next step, the panels are installed in the starting bottom bar, screwed to wooden elements boxes. The junction of the horizontal and vertical panels is covered with a decorative corner, which is glued to the "liquid" nails. After that, a finished frame with a door is glued into the hole.
	Separately, it should be said about the design of the vertical box using a wide 500 mm panel, since in this case auxiliary corners are not required, and the design will look elegant. In order to see the necessary cutouts in the panel, which are made on its reverse side, this illustration, as an example, shows a small segment of it installed on racks. metal frame boxes.
	In order for this finishing option to look neat, exact dimensions are taken from the sides of the box, that is, their width is measured. Then these parameters are transferred to the back side of the panel. The marking points will be the middle of the cut strip. From the marked points, 15 mm are measured on both sides, that is, the distance for bending should be three channels between the ribs located inside the panel.
	After marking, lines are drawn along the entire length of the panel, along which cuts are made using a clerical knife. Only the back side of the panel is cut, and the front remains intact. After that, along with the ribs, the cut-out strip is completely removed, while 3÷4 mm of ribs are left on the reverse side of the front panel. This work is not very convenient to carry out, but it must be done very carefully, without damaging the front surface of the panel.
	After such cutouts are made, the panel will easily bend along the marked lines. After fixing it on the frame of the box, you will get a neat finish without joints and corners.
	Moreover, in this option, all the corners of the box will be rounded, which will also add elegance to the interior design, especially if high quality panels are selected.
	Another point that also needs to be clarified. If a shelf is mounted near the vertical box shown above, mounted on top of the masking tube of the rear box structure, then in order for the cutout to be done neatly, an exact template of a smooth corner rotation is first adjusted from the paper. Then the template is laid on the panel from which the box cover will be cut, outlined, after which the necessary cutout is made along this line.
	Next, it is necessary to briefly consider the installation of the frame and the arrangement of the ceiling sheathing with decorative panels. This work can be carried out during the installation of the main wall frame, or after the wall surface has been covered with plastic panels. The crate can be fixed directly to the main ceiling or to the walls in the form of a frame. In the latter case, the beam, fixed to the walls, will become the basis of the suspended ceiling.
	The beam is mounted in the same way as the elements of the crate for wall cladding. It is fixed along the top line decorative finishes walls.
	In a toilet room, common for city apartments, a similar design may look like this illustration.
	The next step is to apply “liquid” nails to the lower part of the beam, on which the starting profile is glued, into which the sheathing panels will be installed. The starting profile is fixed on three walls of the room - on the side walls and on the one from which the installation of the panels will begin. This can be both the back wall and the one in which the front door is located.
	The glued profile is additionally fixed to the timber using a stapler and staples, which are installed at a distance of 150÷200 mm from each other.
	When the frame for the ceiling is ready, you can begin to prepare and install the ceiling panels. First, they are marked and cut into the desired size.
	The edge of the first panel (mounting spike) is cut off so that the panel fits snugly, over its entire thickness, into the starting profile. The panel is installed with the ends into the side profiles, and the side with the cut spike - into the one that is fixed on the rear (or front) wall.
	The installed panel is screwed to the lathing bars with wide-headed screws.
	You need to immediately decide on the location of the recessed fixtures, since it is much more convenient to install them at a time when the ceiling is not yet completely covered with cladding.
	In order to make holes in the ceiling lining for installing spotlights, a crown drill is used, having a diameter corresponding to the size of their legs. For a small toilet room, one or two lamps will be enough. If its area is large enough, then three or four lighting elements are installed.
	Before installing the luminaires in the sockets cut out in the panels, they are connected to the power supply cable.
	Lighting devices are installed in holes plastic trim, and then are assembled into a single chain. Connection to the power supply should be made only after the installation of the entire finish has been completed.
	The problem is always the installation of the last panel in the finish. Each master chooses his own way of its installation. In this case, it is proposed to make it across the width of the already remaining distance - by 10 ÷ 15 mm. Then, on the edge, which will be fixed on the frame beam, the starting profile is put on. Glue "liquid nails" is applied to the timber. Thereafter last panel is inserted into the groove of the previous cladding element, and with the ends - into the grooves of the side starting profiles. Well, the molding, put on its cut edge, is glued to the strip of “liquid nails” applied to the frame beam.
	Further, the lamps can be connected to the general electrical system of the apartment. The process of installing lighting elements and connecting them to the power supply, if there is not enough experience in electrical work, is best entrusted to an experienced specialist.
	If a we are talking about the toilet, a few words need to be said about the installation and fastening of the toilet to the floor. First of all, this accessory is installed close to the back wall or to the box mounted along it. In addition, during the preliminary fitting, you need to make sure that the sewer pipe is opposite the outlet pipe of the toilet.
	Further, on the tile with a marker, the exact location of the toilet is marked, as well as the points for drilling holes to secure it.
	The next step, the toilet bowl is temporarily removed to the side, and holes are drilled along the marked marks to secure it. The depth of the holes must be at least 60 ÷ 70 mm, and their diameter must correspond to the size of the dowel that comes with the toilet.
	Next, plastic dowel plugs are hammered into the holes in the floor. Installed in place of the toilet. The holes in its leg should line up with the holes in the floor. Often at the same stage it is necessary to immediately dock the outlet of the toilet bowl with the sewer pipe. Then, mounting screws with silicone gaskets are installed in the aligned holes, which will separate the ceramic from the metal. If you do not install the gaskets, then when tightening the screws, the toilet leg may crack.
	It is also impossible to overtighten the fixing screws, as this will create stress in the material, and it may crack or even chip over time. After tightening the fasteners, the caps of the fasteners are closed with special camouflage caps, which are usually included in the kit that is attached to the toilet by the manufacturer.
	After fixing and attaching the toilet bowl to the sewer pipe, assembling the drain tank and connecting a flexible water supply to it, it is recommended to carefully fill the gap between the leg and the floor lining with sealant.

Installing a toilet is a tricky business.

The table above short description the installation of the toilet bowl was given only to demonstrate the final stage of finishing the toilet. In reality, things can be a bit more complicated. Detailed information on how to independently comply with all the rules of all the rules can be obtained from the corresponding publication of our portal.

Plastic ceiling for a toilet or bathroom - the best solution

About the ceiling in this article was also discussed only in an overview. This is because detailed information about it is placed in other article of a portal which is specially devoted to this question.

For those who carefully read this publication, we hope it became clear what to finish the toilet plastic clapboard- not so easy, so it is quite possible to do it on your own, saving some amount. The main thing is not to rush, and always adhere to the folk wisdom "measure seven times - cut once." As a result, a “boring” toilet can turn into a cozy, outwardly beautiful, easy-to-clean room, as, for example, shown in the proposed video.

Video: how plastic panels can transform a standard toilet room in an apartment